MASTERS ON AUDIO AND VIDEOTips & Techniques Archives

November 15, 2003

 

Setting Up Your Home Theater

It's one thing to buy a bunch of home-theater gear, but quite another to get it all working properly together. For most of us it's a major investment, however, so there's a great deal of sense in making sure the pieces fit.

The room: As with any sort of audio/video system, the room is as much a component as any of the electronics, so it must be made conducive to the use of the equipment. For one thing, since surround sound carries its own built-in acoustic atmosphere, there is no need for the room to contribute much in the way of reverberance, so you should make some effort to keep the sound as "dead" as possible. Carpets, heavy curtains, and overstuffed furniture all contribute to sound absorption.

The main enemy of the video portion is light. Overall, the room should be fairly dark when you're watching your videos, and that's not usually too difficult to manage at night. Just make sure no lamps cast their light directly on the screen. During the day, it may be necessary to provide curtains to darken the room (and they can also help with taming the room's audio behavior). In positioning the television, make sure too that you can't see windows reflected in the screen at any of the primary viewing positions.

The room will also have a considerable effect on where you can put the various pieces of equipment in order to satisfy some of the principles outlined below. Sometimes creating a map of the room with cutouts of the equipment and furniture, drawn to scale, can be of assistance. Try to be as flexible as possible; you may be thinking of the equipment along one wall at the moment, when actually it might work better in a corner.

Placing the electronics: Where you put the playback and control components in your system is less critical than, say, the speakers, but there are some things you should try to do.

One is keep it all together so that the leads from one piece of gear to the next are as short as possible. This will lessen the risk of interference and hum, and may reduce the tangle of wires behind the equipment. Keeping it up front near the video screen will mean that the only long runs of wire are likely to be to the surround speakers. That position will also ensure that the remote control can "see" the equipment; there's nothing more annoying than having to aim the remote off to the side all the time.

Place components you actually have to touch -- the DVD player, say -- at convenient heights so you can reach them easily; things that are mostly run by remote control can be in more awkward spots as long as the infrared beam can still reach them. And whether you use a receiver or separate amplifiers to power your speakers, never put them in a position where the heat they produce can rise up through other components. Hot, dust-bearing air can foul the mechanisms of tape and disc machines very quickly.

Wiring it up: Home-theater systems always involve lots of wires and getting them to go to the right places can be confusing. In addition to keeping leads as short as possible, it is useful to label all cables with a piece of tape near their terminations. That way, if you ever have to move the system or remove something for repair, hooking it up again will be a snap. Where possible, the label should bear the same words as the connector to which the wire is to be joined.

Do have a look at the wiring diagrams in the instruction manuals, but be prepared to be baffled by some of the more complex arrangements. It's sometimes helpful to use a yellow highlighter to trace out the proper wiring for components you do have, and ignore the others. In all cases, simple logic should help guide you to the right connections.

Cardinal rule: make sure the power to the amplifier or receiver is off when you make or change any connection. Otherwise you may risk a blast of ungrounded hum at an unexpected moment. That can be lethal to speakers.

Setting up the video: Whatever television monitor you buy, it will come with factory-standard picture settings. These may produce exactly the kind of image you want. If so, that’s great. But the factory settings are arbitrary, and all sets have an array of controls that will let you tailor the picture to one you like.

Chances are, for example, the set will be adjusted for too bright a picture. This may be desirable in a well-lit room, but it often brings with it a compromise in picture sharpness. Turn it down a bit and watch long enough to get used to it; you'll probably like it better eventually, even though it may necessitate darkening the room as well.

Look for natural skin tones. Local newscasts are a good test because they usually are filled with faces and are live. If a local station broadcasts color bars, tune them in and look particularly at the yellow bar (it should have no tinges of green or orange) and the red (it shouldn't bloom -- bleed into the neighboring bars). Getting the picture right is a delicate balance of color, tint, brightness and contrast (or "picture"), but it's worth fiddling with to get things right.

Placing the speakers: Ideally you should arrange your room so that the main left and right speakers and your listening position form the corners of an equilateral triangle. If that's not practical, make sure the speakers are equal distances from the picture screen and in similar acoustic environments (if one's against a wall and the other in the open, they'll sound very different).

The center-channel speaker should be right in the middle, just above or below the video screen. It's becoming increasingly clear that the three front speakers must be exactly the same distance from the main listening seat, which is virtually impossible if all three are lined up against a wall -- the center is invariably a bit closer. If you can't push it back, try moving the main speakers forward a bit. To get it right, pin a piece of string at head height on your chair and stretch it to all three speakers. The distance should be the same; otherwise, you'll localize at the center speaker sounds that are meant to be off to one side. The result is a much narrower apparent soundstage.

There's some disagreement as to whether the surround speakers should be placed beside or behind the listening area. Depending on the room, both work, but keeping them as high on the wall as possible seems to provide the best results.

Subwoofer placement can be quite critical. Output is better against a wall, best in a corner, but there may be other factors. Trial and error is the best way to get the most satisfying bass, but one trick is to park the subwoofer temporarily in your chair and walk around the room listening. Wherever the bass sounds best is where the subwoofer should go.

Adjusting the audio: Unless you're in the habit of moving the furniture around frequently, you will probably have to make the main audio adjustments only once. That's good, because with some surround decoders they are tricky to do. But all decoders include test signals to help you balance levels in all speakers. You can buy sound level meters that help in this effort, but mainly you can do it by ear. (It will also help you identify acoustic problems: if the test tone sounds radically different in the right and left channels, something's amiss.) When you get settings you like, write them down so you can restore them easily. There are lots of occasions when decoding things like ordinary CDs produce strange balances that you want to correct; it's handy to be able to go back to the standard settings when you switch back to movies.

Managing remotes: Chances are you'll have separate remotes for your TV, VCR, receiver, and maybe some other components as well. Often one of these will let you control more than one component, and that can make life much simpler. It's worth investigating whether or not what you now have will let you reduce the number of active remotes to one or two. Or a third-party learning remote that can operate everything may be the answer. Bear in mind that most multiple-component remotes can't control all functions of each piece of equipment, but they'll usually do the main things; for more complex matters, you always have the component's own remote.

...Ian G. Masters
ian@mastersonaudio.com


MASTERS ON AUDIO AND VIDEOAll Contents Copyright © 2003
Schneider Publishing Inc., All Rights Reserved.
Any reproduction of content on
this site without permission is strictly forbidden.